Sunday, September 4, 2011

Lost Horse Climbing, Bitterroots

Posted By on Sun, Sep 4, 2011 at 1:38 PM

Ben and I managed to get out for a day climbing in Lost Horse Canyon. We headed up to the main wall and started with a few new climbs for the two of us. Ben had never climbed See the Light, 5.9 three star rating in the Lost Horse Guide, so he onsighted this climb in good style with good gear placements and fun climbing. Next I led Monkey Master 8000, which was a bit of a funky climb with some difficult gear placement and a very serrated fist sized crack to avoid using for holds or gear. I made it without any climbing difficulty taking my time and searching the route out. Not as straight forward as it appeared from the ground or nearly as high quality a climb as See the Light, it made for some interesting mental moments for me.

We moved on to climb the two pitch Muleskinner 5.8/5.9 and we again swapped leads, Ben taking the first which he had not led before and I took the second pitch which I had not led either. It was nice in the hot sun, not too sweltering, just right after the cool down we have the passed few days. We finished up top roping Crazy Horse, a 5.11 b/c that follows an arete with sequential sidepulls and quick footwork to a ledge and then slots the climber up into a really nice finger crack with tenuous feet and some sustained pulling and jamming to a small hand ledge. From there the route heads left back to the arete. Getting onto the thin edge is a balancy, barn door thin couple of moves that I could not pull off yesterday. Super fun line and a great way to finish up any day climbing in Lost Horse. We had the canyon to ourselves, surprising for such a nice weekend day.

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